강병하 Byung-ha Kang , 배우리 Woo-ri Bae , 박민선 Min-sun Park , 이기현 Key-hyun Lee , 이존환 Jon-hwan Lee , 한상훈 Sang-hoon Han

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Abstract

In this study, cationic guar polymer was selected from many cationic polymers currently using in shampoo and then was newly developed having 0.7 % above of nitrogen content and 190 ~ 200 cps of viscosity through various performance measurements. Wet combing ability, polymer substantivity, silicone deposition and panel test were evaluated for performance measurements. Cationic guar polymer that was invented from this study can optimize conditioning effects in shampoo.

Key Words

cationic guar, charge density, molecular weight, conditioning, shampoo

최기환 Khee-hwan Choi , 손홍하 Hong-ha Son , 이상민 Sang-min Lee

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Abstract

Waxes, or long-chain hydrocarbons, may be obtained naturally from animals, vegetables, and mineral waxes, or may be synthesized. The oil-wax gels are widely applied to lots of cosmetics such as lipsticks. For example, the lipstick texture is strongly dependent on the glossiness of the oil-wax gels. Extensive research has been carried out to investigate the lattice structure of wax mixture in pure solvents (hydrocarbons) and defined mixtures. However, only a limited amount of work has been published on the lattice structure of wax matrixes in undefined mixtures. The objective of this study was to investigate the relationship between the lattice structure of ceresin wax and different wax mixtures and the glossiness of oil-wax gels. Recently visual factors such as the glossiness of skin are generally known as the words to express the beauty. The mechanism of glossiness has been suggested to understand the changes that occur in the lattice structure of the wax matrixes when they are forming gels and also the effects of the nature of solvent. The present work investigates the lattice structure of the wax matrixes and glossiness of oil-wax gels obtained from ceresin and microcrystalline wax as well as of the gels formed by different waxes in solvent.

Key Words

lattice structure, oil-wax gels, glossiness, branched wax, wax matrix

안은정 Eun Jung An , 심종원 Jongwon Shim , 최장원 Jang Won Choi , 김진웅 Jin-woong Kim , 박원석 Won Seok Park , 김한곤 Han-kon Kim , 박기동 Ki-dong Park , 한성식 Sung-sik Han

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Abstract

This study introduces a flexible approach to enhance skin permeation by using ethosomes with deformable lipid membranes as well as controllable sizes. To demonstrate this, a set of ethosomes encapsulating an anti-hair loss ingredient, Triaminodil^TM, as a model drug, were fabricated with varying their size, which was achieved by solely applying the different level of mechanical energy, while maintaining their chemical composition. After characterization of the ethosomes with dynamic light scattering, transmission electron microscopy, and deformability measurements, it was found that their membrane deformability depended on the particle size. Moreover, studies on in vitro skin permeation and murine anagen induction allowed us to figure out that the membrane deformability of ethosomes essentially affects delivery efficiency of Triaminodil^TM through the skin. It was noticeable in our study that there existed an optimum particle size that can not only maximize the delivery of the drug through the skin, but also increase its actual dermatological activity. These findings offer a useful basis for understanding how ethosomes should be designed to improve delivery efficiency of encapsulated drugs therein in the aspects of changing their length scales and membrane properties.

Key Words

ethosomes, particle size, deformability, skin permeation, anti-hair loss ingredient

이근수 Geun Soo Lee , 이동환 Dong Hwan Lee , 김경범 Kyoung Bum Kim , 고현주 Hyun Joo Ko , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

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Abstract

The formidable barrier property of the stratum cornemum and the high hydrophilicity of active ingredient make it difficult to permeate through the skin and reach to its site of action. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of chemical penetration enhancers on the skin permeation of a hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient, such as arbutin. The enhancing effects of N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP) on the permeation of a hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient were evaluated by using Franz diffusion cell. The study indicated that NMP has considerable influence on the skin permeability. NMP was not only the most effective enhancer but also increased the skin permeability of arbutin approximately 1.3 ~ 1.5 fold compared with control without penetration enhancer. The lag time did not change with NMP, which suggested no effect of NMP on skin lipid fluidity. This suggest that arbutin co-permeated with NMP. The results indicate NMP is effective enhancer of a hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient in penetration, with potential applications for drug delivery system.

Key Words

N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, enhancement ratio, cosmetic, hydrophobic active ingredient

이범천 Bum Chun Lee , 주철규 Chul Gue Joo , 허지연 Ji Yeon Hur , 이근하 Keun Ha Lee , 김영진 Young Jin Kim , 이찬우 Chan Woo Lee , 김진웅 Jin Woong Kim , 박용일 Yong Il Park , 김현숙 Hyun Sook Kim , 최태부 Tae Boo Choe

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Abstract

We investigated the effects of skin hydration and composition analysis of proteoglycan (chia seed polymer) produced from chia (Salvia hispanica) seed. The result showed that proteoglycan of chia seeds is composed of galactose (46.8 %), glucuronic acid (27.1 %), rhamnose (8.7 %), xylose (7.6 %), glucose (4.9 %), fructose (2.3 %), mannose (1.8 %), arabinose (0.9 %) and the amount of proteins contained is 31.3 mg/g with the constituent amino acid compositions (mg/g) of Asp (1.9), Glu (3.6), Ser (0.9), Gly (3.6), Thr (0.8), Arg (1.0), Ala (2.0), Tyr (0.4), Cys (4.8), Val (1.1), Phe (0.5), Ile (0.6), Leu (0.9). The molecular weight of the proteoglycan measured by GPC (Gel Permeation Chromatography) is the range of 100,000 ~ 250,000 Da and the average molecular weight is 170,000 Da. The moisturizing effects and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) of chia seed polymer in cosmetic products (O/W emulsion) were studied in vivo. Chia seed polymer showed good skin hydration effects when compared with sodium hyaluronate which is a common moisturizer. Taken all together, chia seed polymer should be a very useful cosmetic ingredient as a moisturizer and a protecting agent from various skin irritations.

Key Words

Salvia hispanica, proteoglycan, skin protection, composition analysis, moisturizer

박선희 Sun Hee Park , 이강혁 Kang Hyuk Lee , 한창성 Chang Sung Han , 김기호 Ki Ho Kim , 김영희 Young Heui Kim

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Abstract

In order to evaluate anti-wrinkle activity of Carex humilis extract, free radical scavenging activity, elastase inhibitory activity and reduction of expression Matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) mRNA and MMP-1 protein were investigated. The roots of Carex humilis were extracted with 95 % ethanol and successively partitioned with organic solvents with increasing polarity of the solvents. Each fraction of organic solvent were investigated by using free radical scavenging activity and elastase inhibitory activity test. Among them, EtOAc fraction showed antioxidant activity (SC₅₀=4.89 μg/mL) and elastase inhibitory activity (IC₅₀=23.5 μg/mL). EtOAc fraction was developed on silica gel by open-column chromatography and consecutively re-developed on C18 resin by prep-HPLC to give α-viniferin as a major component, which was confirmed by spectrometric analysis. In the assay on expression of MMP-1 mRNA by RT-PCR and protein by western-blot, EtOAc layer (10 ~ 100 μg/mL) was reduced about 50 ~ 60 %, 50 ~ 65 % respectively and α-viniferin (0.5 ~ 2 μg/mL) was inhibited about 60 ~ 75 %, 55 ~ 65 % respectively in human fibroblast. Therefore, our findings suggest that EtOAc layer of Carex humilis containing α- viniferin can be useful as an active ingredient for cosmeceuticals of anti-wrinkle effects.

Key Words

antioxidant, elastase, MMP-1, α-viniferin, Carex humilis

김다슬 Da Sel Kim , 김동현 Dong Hyun Kim , 오명진 Myoung Jin Oh , 이광근 Kwang Geun Lee , 국무창 Moo Chang Kook , 박장서 Chang Seo Park

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Abstract

Yuza (Citrus junos Sieb ex TANAKA) is a citrus fruit that is cultivated in northeast Asia. Citron is known for containing abundant antioxidants such as vitamin C, flavonoids, for example hesperidin and hesperetin, and terpenoids such as limononin. When mature citron is processed for tea or other beverage food products in Korea, massive amounts of seeds and pericarp are remained as waste. This study aimed to exploit the processed remnant of Citron for developing functional cosmetic applications. Ethanol extracts of Yuza seed and pericarp did not show significant radical scavenging activities measured by DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) method. But they contained significantly high phenolic compounds. Cultured human dermal fibroblasts and HaCaT keratinocytes were irradiated with 25 mJ UVB and the citron extracts were added to the medium of each culture. Cellular damages caused by UVB irradiation were prevented by the addition of the Yuza extract. In addition, the reduction of the enhanced MMP-1 expression after irradiation of UVB in human dermal fibroblasts was observed. Also the increased level of pro-inflammtory TNF-α in the UVB irradiated HaCaT cells was decreased. The collagen expression was enhanced by the extract. Yuza extract markedly inhibited melanin production from α-MSH treated B16F1 melanoma cells. Melanin assay, tyrosinase zymography results indicated that Yuza extract had strong depigmenting activity. In conclusion, Yuza ethanol extracts have good anti-photoaging and strong anti-melanogenic efficacies.

Key Words

yuza by-product, anti-photoaging, collagen, MMP-1, Whitening, melanin assay, tyrosinase zymography, cosmetic

박창민 Chang-min Park , 정민석 Min-seok Joung , 백기엽 Kee-yoeup Paek , 최종완 Jong-wan Choi

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Abstract

Anoectochilus formosanus, commonly known as “Jewel Orchids”, which has been used in traditional folk medicines for feber, pain, and diseases of the lung and liver in Taiwan. We artificially cultured Anoectochilus formosanus plantlet by using the bioreactor culture system for this study from Anoectochilus formosanus. Previously, several studies have been reported on pharmacological activities of lipid-metabolism, hepatoprotective activity, anti- tumor activity and immuno-stimulating effects but other efficacy were not well known as a cosmetic ingredient for skin care. In this study, we investigated the effect of melanogenesis in B16 mouse melanoma cells and lipid droplet accumulation in 3T3-L1 preadipocytes about Anoectochilus formosanus plantlet extract. We report that Anoectochilus formosanus plantlet extract inhibits the cytoplasmic lipid droplet accumulation through adipogenic differentiation of preadipocytes as well as inhibition of tyorsinase activity and melanogenesis. As a result, our findings indicate that Anoectochilus formosanus plantlet extract may be the potential natural ingredient for whitening and slimming cosmetic products.

Key Words

Anoectochilus formosanus, melanogenesis, adipogenesis, plantlet, tissue-culture

Guang Hua Xu , 김재화 Jae Wha Kim , Gao Li , 유익동 Ick Dong Yoo

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Abstract

Investigation of secondary bioactive metabolites from the fruiting bodies of Lactarius hatsudake led to the isolation of four azulene derivatives by means of repeated column chromatography and preparative HPLC, and they were identified as 1-formyl-4-methyl-7-isopropyl azulene (1), lactaroviolin (2), 4-methyl-7-isopropyl-azulene- 1-carboxylic acid (3), and 1-formyl-4-methyl-7-(1-hydroxy-1-methylethyl) azulene (4) by their physico-chemical properties and spectroscopic analysis. The isolated compounds were evaluated for the effects on modulation of cytokines in natural killer cell line (NK92 cells). Compounds 1 and 4 strongly inhibited IFN-γ production in a dose-dependent manner, corresponding to 101.3 % and 92.7 % inhibition at 400 μM, and 11.9 % and 24.1 % at 100 μM, respectively, whereas compounds 2 and 3 showed weak inhibitory effect on INF-γ production, corresponding to 45.9 % and 18.0 % inhibition at 400 μM.

Key Words

Lactarius hatsudake, azulene, interferon-γ, natural killer cell

박정옥 Jung Ok Park , 임규남 Gyu Nam Lim , 박수남 Su Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase of Rhododendron brachycarpum D. Don extracts were investigated. And the moisturizing effect of cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract were investigated by clinical trial. The ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (1.83 μg/mL) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity (FSC₅₀). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The 50 % extract fraction (0.064 μg/mL) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 10 μg/mL). The inhibitory effects (IC₅₀) of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (70.5 μg/mL) and aglycone fraction of extract (122.40 μg/mL). The inhibitory effects (IC₅₀) on elastase were determined with ethyl acetate of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (43.50 μg/mL) and aglycone fraction of extract (20.73 μg/mL). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts was formulated for skin hydration effect and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract was applied to the right lower arm. After 180 min, the water contents in skin were increased by 1 ~ 4 % than the placebo cream. And TEWL of parts was decreased as 7.7 g/m²h (experimental cream) and 8.9 g/m²h (placebo cream) respectively. These results indicate that extract/ fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging ¹O₂ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And inhibitory activity on tyrosinase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for whitening and anti-wrinkle products. Also the increase of skin hydration of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.

Key Words

Rhododendron brachycarpum, antioxidative activity, whitening, skin hydration, cosmetics